Thomas Keller

Kenzo Estate

by Kelly on July 8, 2010 · 1 comment

$100 million…
4,000 acres…
and 20 years in the making…

Last Friday we visited Kenzo Estate, Kenzo Tsujimoto’s newly debuted winery in Napa Valley.  You may recognize Tsujimoto as the CEO of Japanese video-game publisher Capcom Co. (Street Fighter and Resident Evil).  Tsujimoto has teamed up with winemaker Heidi Barrett (responsible for some of California’s most notable cult wines such as Screaming Eagle), esteemed vineyard manager David Abreu, as well as chef Thomas Keller of The French Laundry.  In fact, Kenzo Estate wines will be available in the U.S. exclusively at Thomas Keller restaurants.

Upon arrival at the Kenzo Estate tasting room, we were given a glass of the 2008 Asatsuyu, a Bordeaux style Sauvignon Blanc, to taste as we toured the wine caves and fermenting rooms.  While I’m not a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc, I thought this one was quite good, especially on a hot summer day – though I’m not sure it’s worth the $60 price tag.

Along with the usual stainless-steel fermenting tanks, Kenzo Estate also has a room full of  experimental concrete vats which have not yet been used.

After the tour, we headed to the patio to continue our tasting and enjoy lunch catered by Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery.

We started with a cheese plate to accompany the wine…
Selection of local farm-fresh cheese with dried fruits, wildflower honey, and candied walnuts

Our overall opinion of the reds – we could tell that the vines were young (not much evidence of the fruit itself) which was offset with really good wine making.  We think the vintages will be better in a few years – and we look forward to trying these wines again later.

2006 Ai, Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Murasaki, Proprietary Red Wine
2006 Rindo, Red Wine

Next came our sandwiches which did not disappoint.  Bouchon Bakery is one of my favorite restaurants – Jeff and I can often be seen at the Columbus Circle location for brunch on the weekends.  Our only complaints have been the location (basically in a mall) and that they don’t serve chips with the sandwiches – both were remedied at Kenzo Estate…

Location – beautiful vineyard in the hills of Napa Valley
Chips – fried in duck fat (yes, duck fat) – so good!

Tuna Nicoise on Palladin
Tuna salad, Bibb lettuce, red onions, black olive tapenade and aioli

Beef Brisket on Pretzel Brioche
Horseradish and Dijon aioli, red mustard greens, Fontina, house pickles and pickled red onions

And a beautiful view.

Definitely a great way to spend the afternoon.

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Per Se

by Kelly on May 11, 2010 · 0 comments

Per Se

(10 Columbus Circle)

“Per Se is the urban interpretation of The French Laundry.” ~Per Se

Last Saturday, we dined at Thomas Keller’s Per Se with my cousin, Joel, and his girlfriend, Casey (of CaseyCulture).  We had been eagerly anticipating this night since we made the reservation a month ago – and passing by Per Se’s big blue doors, we began an exceptional culinary experience that we won’t soon forget.  Michael and the other staff at Per Se were incredibly friendly and made sure that our dining experience was perfect – complete with a visit to the kitchen.

(There are many photos to follow…
most are a little dark and maybe a little blurry since I didn’t use a flash.)

Champagne to start….

Pierre Gimonnet, Blanc de Blancs, “Cuvée Deux Côtes,” 1er Cru, Cuis
~Blanc de Blancs is definitely one of my favorites. While Per Se doesn’t have a pre-planned wine pairing to go with the tasting menu, they will “put something together” upon request… which we did and it was definitely a smart move.~

Amuse-bouche…

Gruyere Gougeres
~These French cheese puffs were to die for!  Little bits of flavor heaven.  The recipe is actually in The French Laundry Cookbook – I may attempt it if I’m feeling ambitious one day.~

“CORNETS”
Salmon Tartare with Sweet Red Onion Creme Fraiche in a sesame seed cornet
~The salmon tartar and
red onion creme fraiche complemented each other so well – more amazing flavors!~

This slightly sweet, freshly baked roll was served with salted and sweet butter.  So much for avoiding the bread to save room for the rest – this was just too good to pass up.

“OYSTERS AND PEARLS”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
~Sadly, I did not get a picture of this dish which is classic at The French Laundry.  I don’t eat shell fish, but judging by the oooh’s and aaah’s at the table, this dish was insanely good (and remained one of the favorites of the night).~

Paired with …. Schloss Gobelsburg, “Heiligenstein,” Kamptal, Riesling

“SALADE DE PETITS OIGNONS”
Niçoise Olive Papadum, Onion Blossoms and Cherry Belle Radishes with Italian Parsley Coulis
~This salad was beautiful and interesting.~

CRISPY SKIN FILLET OF PACIFIC MADAI
San Marzano Tomato Marmalade, Globe Artichokes, Italian Capers, Petite Basil and Agretti with Hen Egg Emulsion
~
The sweetness of the tomato marmalade with the tartness of the mustard was an unexpectedly pleasant combination.~ 

SCOTTISH LANGOUSTINES “POÊLÉ”
Gnocchi “Parisienne,” Green Apple Mustard Purée and Pearson Farm’s Pecans with Brown Butter Custard

Paired with …. Martinelli “Charles Ranch” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
~
This chardonnay was wonderful – the buttery style that we love.~

LIBERTY FARM’S PEKIN DUCK BREAST
The French Laundry’s Mangalitsa Ham, English Peas, Glazed Turnips and Pea Shoots with Black Truffle Jus
~
This is definitely some of the best duck I’ve ever had – one of my favorite dishes of the night.~

Paired with …. Morey-Saint-Denis Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Burgundy

DEGUSTATION OF HOOSICK FALLS’ SPRING LAMB
“Cassoulet” of Pole Beans and Garlic Scapes with Baby Mint-Lamb Sauce
~Lamb 5 different ways – this dish was also a favorite among our group.  Wish I knew the name for that little contraption for holding the bone.~

Paired with …. Columella Syrah, Swartland, South Africa

“DORSET”
Sequoia Cherries, Buckwheat Streusel, Candied Walnuts and Garden Mâche with Buckwheat Honey
~
More wonderful presentation – after setting the plate before us, the server drizzled honey over the cheese.  Dorset is a semi-soft, washed-rind cow’s milk cheese from Vermont.  The honey, cherries, and walnuts complimented the buttery and pungent flavor of the cheese perfectly.~

MANGO SORBET
Rice Pudding and Rice Wafer with Whipped Jasmine Tea

“COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS”
Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts
~
A surprise course!  And again, so tasty!  At this point, I’m wondering if I will have room for the dessert course I chose from the tasting menu.~

Paired with …. Château Rieussec, Sauternes

“TRUFFE AU CHOCOLAT ET PISTACHE”
Pistachio “Bavarois,” Bitter Chocolate “Marquise” and “Pain de Gênes” with Mast Brothers’ Chocolate Ice Cream
~
This was Jeff’s pick.~

ICED RASPBERRY PARFAIT
Macerated Pudwill Farm’s Raspberries and Hazelnut Mousse with Raspberry Sorbet
~
This was my pick for dessert.  This dish took raspberries to a new level – my favorite was the sorbet.~

(mini) Creme Brulee


“MIGNARDISES”

Selection of Chocolates
~We tried the peanut butter and creme fraiche which were both amazing.~

very tiny hard candies

caramel, nougat, and truffles

And finally, one of the things we were looking forward to all night – a visit to the kitchen.  By the time we were done eating, it was well after midnight and things seemed to be winding down in the kitchen….though every night the chefs prepare the menu for the following night.

The monitor below is a live feed from the kitchen at The French Laundry which allows Keller to keep an eye on everything happening at his restaurants.

Per Se was a truly exceptional and memorable experience - I would definitely return, but probably to the salon where you can order a la carte.  Now we just need to make it to The French Laundry on one of our trips to Napa….


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Brunch at Bouchon Bakery

by Kelly on February 7, 2010 · 3 comments

Bouchon Bakery

(10 Columbus Circle – Time Warner Center)

Yesterday we had brunch at Bouchon Bakery – definitely one of our favorites in our neighborhood.  The only thing I’m not crazy about is the location, the 3rd floor of the Time Warner Center.  But the food is so good we are always willing to overlook the location.  So, let’s get to it – the food!

We’ve been to Bouchon Bakery a number of times and always look forward to the basket of freshly baked bread that comes shortly after we order.  Together with the salted butter, this bread is irresistible – it’s soooo good.  Just try not to eat too much so you have room for brunch.

Ham & Cheese Sandwich
“This sandwich, inspired by the traditional French charcuterie, is prepared with Madrange ham, a slow-cooked, delicately flavored ham. The combination of sweet butter and Dijon mustard complements the subtle nutty flavors of Emmenthaler cheese.”  - from
Bouchon Bakery

Simple and satisfying, I’ve ordered this sandwich a few times and have never been disappointed.  The mixed greens salad is lightly dressed with vinaigrette – just the right accompaniment.

Macaroni & Cheese with Lobster and Truffle

Jeff ordered this special addition to the menu and it was amazing – the best Mac & Cheese we’ve ever had.  The cheese sauce is a combination of brie, parmesan, and mascarpone cheeses.  Lobster chunks, shaved truffle, and a bread crumb crust make for an incredibly rich dish.  After finishing the mac & cheese and salvaging any remaining sauce with a few chunks of bread, Jeff said, “I would lick the dish clean if it wasn’t a rude thing to do.”  I think that says it all.

As always, brunch at Bouchon Bakery was delicious and we will definitely return to do it all over again.

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